Being Family in Girona

Finally, a break from our sport climbing bootcamp. Last Friday, Jesse and I navigated to the coast and met my sister in Girona. There are layers of history of this city, with medieval architecture being most evident. Exploring places like this make Europe such a treat for an Coloradan who thinks 19th century buildings are old.

We met Naomi at the train. Jesse was psyched to finally have a drinking bud. I was psyched to play storm the castle (in my new skull cap) with my big sis. I’ve missed her so.

More photos to come.

My first 8a

Jesse and I were getting little snappy with each other. The cold nights and mornings in the tent and an accumulation of a couple inconveniences got to us. Our water bottles are freezing. My thermarest has a hole. The sport climbers cooking next to us are uptight and Jesse has no one to drink with. I forgot my climbing pants and bought a pair for over 100$ which I later realized I couldn’t highstep in. Kryptonite.

You’re not supposed to suffer on a sport climbing trip right? Everything is more expensive than we anticipated and after hemorrhaging oodles of money a poverty cloud settled overhead and began to dampen our Spanish fiesta. Well, enough of that shit. We’re in Spain and are going to enjoy it. We’ll save money where we can and spend it when worthy opportunities arise. We’ll be intentional with our spending.

Yesterday, we began to remedy our inconveniences. We bought a proper fry pan and a box of veggies. We took showers. I fixed my thermarest. Things started looking up. Today, water bottles were frozen but we woke up cheery and talking shit to one another in proper brother/sister spirit. I cooked a egg and veg heaven of a breakfast and we went to our new favorite crag. We’re in Terradettes and the crag Paret de las bruixes is loaded with long 12s and 13s. We brought both ropes this time to compliment our selfish needs, packed a big lunch and  our novels.  We suntanned with the 20 other sportwankers milling about the base. It is frightening stepping far away from the crag’s base. Not because of a cliff’s edge.  The leave no trace ethic apparently doesn’t exist in Spain and it is difficult to avoid stepping in human shit when I go for a pee.

Today I sent my first 8a! I surprised myself by putting the route to rest on my second go. Called “El Latido del Miedo, it’s a 30 meter route up tufas and such things, the beautiful line seems like many of the others. I’m so psyched I get to climb here. I don’t know if I’ll focus on redpointing much harder than 13b. We’ll see. I will certainly try routes that take more than a couple goes but I want to keep the pressure low and sample a few zones in this sea of Catalan limestone.

The day ended with Jesse and I each giving a full effort on routes at our limits and attaining onsight glory. From now on, we’ll try to keep the energy positive over here. Thankfully, we are on a pretty posh sport climbing trip and there is much to be upbeat about. In Jesse’s Colorado slang, “The hiking boots are out and the spainard’s warm ups are getting crushed.”

Con Amor,
Madaleine

Cataluyna: love at first sight

Its 10 at night and Im sitting in cafe. Okay it’s a restaurant. But it’s Spain and cafe sounds better. Jesse and i just stuffed our faces after our 3rd climbing day. Best food yet. White asparagus with ham. Chicken soup. Salad. Chocolate mouse. I can’t undertstand Catalan to save my life.

On thursday, we arrived Barcelona and explored a beautiful city as much as we could for one day and in the fog of jetlagg. We walked. Through the parque buell, taking in gaudi architecture, to the sagrada familia church. Through a series of subway mishaps Jesse lost lots of money and I tried not to laugh at his poor luck. He has since gotten his chance to laugh as I forgot my climbing pants and impulsively bought some overpriced European pants. The pants seduced me with their very euro knee and butt patches and closefit (that I thought I though Lizzy would finally approve of). BIG mistake. They have stolen my power to high step and bridge and hence are now my kryptonite. I still think they look good but their days are numbered (photo to come).

As we arrived armed only with the general areas that we wanted to climb, i knew much of the happenings on this trip would inevitably be unexpected. Everything is working out splendidly so far and I’m pleased with our ability to free form and attract good things. More to come.

For the Love of Eldo

While always closer than the smell of bacon, my love Eldo resurged in January with a warm winter spell. Scary Canary was the first new route of year to thaw my addiction to Eldo. The route presents excitement off the ground, as you fiddle in an RP and double or triple zero before making committing moves. There is a crux about 15 feet up which actually got me to deadpoint. Afterwards, you poke your through a band of rottenness and then voyage up typical Eldo technicalities with the odd job of fixed and bolted metal things. The second pitch, an ever steepening dihedral with tricky gear and an exciting run-out, gave me a run for my money and I had to return a second time to lead it with falling.

After this climb, my fire for Eldo was burning bright. I return to climb several new routes and revisit older loves. I finally climbed Jules Verne, linking it into the Lene’s Dream and Naked Edge. At some point during a surge of an inflated ego, I said something completely absurb to my partner “Ms. Shawberg.” Luckily she wasn’t yet tweeting for the SheSends twitter, or you may have seen something like. “OMG. When will this end? My partner just called herself a ‘StoneCold Crusher.’”

Last week, I climbed the Surfs Up (13a R) route at the Rincon Wall. I redpointed the route on my second attempt. I believe sport climbing at the Industrial Wall for the week prior paid off! I also had the advantage of climbing Freeline (13b R) last May, which shares the starting boulder problem. Nonetheless, I am encouraged by how strong I felt on this route. It is fun to be more fit in the middle of winter than ever and I know that the good fortune of climbable weather and adventures within a close proximity to my house are might helpful factors.

Thank you Mike Schluach for taking photos. Pitch 1 of Scary canary.