Nik sent the Prophet! I think the Wonderboy is outgrowing his name and I now pronounce him the Propheteer. We spent the last two days climbing the route from the ground. His hard working days (fixing and mini-tractioning the route) leading up the effort coupled with an indomitable level of psyche paid off. Nik floated most of the climb his first try. The pitch with the sideways dyno gave him trouble and he had to figure out a variation around the dyno that gains the remaining boulder problem at the pitch’s end. He’s calling it “the devils reach around.” The A1 beauty pitch looked like 5.9 as he sent it, placing all the gear on lead (I think except for the first and last piece). At the pitch’s end, Nik kept screaming “I’m a Terradactyl!!” A moment to appreciate. I’m inspired by Nik’s positive ways of operating in life and thankful that the timing worked well to support Nik on this effort. The route does remind me of the Black Canyon–lots of face climbing with flexing flakes and serious runouts. The A1 beauty pitch, however, with a 1/2 inch splitter meandering beside a knife edge arete, is surely at home with any classic line on El Cap.
This morning, I descended down the east ledges and Nik is currently still rapping/cleaning up his fixed lines from the route. I hope the last few days are acclimating me for climbing here. I have two weeks and I feel ancy to get going with trying an el cap route i have a remote chance to free. What’s new? Im also feeling physically and mentally worn down which is a difficult place for me to be as I’m ever impatient to let myself rest! So I have some choices to make…. In terms of a route, Nik and I are deciding between el corazon and el niño