Yes, 3 yrs ago I said I wouldn’t go to this event again. Well, I think I can handle it with more grace this year. I even got cards made up to hand out to all the sponsors who want to shower me with gear and money so that I may keep rock climbing. They were actually made 15 yrs ago, as a funny gift to me on my Bat Mitzvah. Seeing as I’ve avoided working very much since then, I haven’t had much use for them. This weekend is the cards’ chance to shine. I just had to make a couple changes….. Wish me luck out there!

While thigh deep in places, the snow was melting quickly when we arrived so we chose flattish, dry rocks near Midsummer’s Donme to set up our tents. Upon arrival I had a clairvoyant moment, dubbing our base camp ‘Storm Point.’ An hour later, we were in lighting position, attempting to keep our tents from blowing away and getting scared in the eye of a storm. The weather remained unstable for a few days with severe afternoon t-storms. I spent most of this time reading a new book and fantasizing about being a cowgirl.

As the skies cleared we were able to set our sights on Ambush Peak. Roughly a 1600 ft wall, the central part of the east face begins as a slab that gradually steepens until an arching roof system, at approx. 800 ft, marks the change to steep to vertical climbing. Chris and I used a spotting scope from the base as best we could, trying to link up the discontinuous flakes and cracks. We’d brought no pins with our gear and, while thankful to have bolts and a handrill, we were trying to find a line that wouldn’t require us to bolt too much.

Prior to our trip, we gathered what climbing info we could on the valley. Previous climbers in the area helped make first ascent desires a successful reality. There is already an excellent moderate route going nearly halfway up the wall. Ambush Plaisir Aside from the last pitch, we climbed this route and then began poking around for possibilities from there. I’d also spoken with Chip Chace for ideas and info. He soloed a beautiful aid line up the center of the east face, through the large roof, and we wondered if it’d be possible to freeclimb the route with a significant deviation around the roof. While we did see an option left of his line, that may connect back right, we ended up getting pulled into a line just to the right of the big roof and continuing straight up from there.

Here’s a link to the route ‘I Think Therefore I Ambush’ and I’ll post more later! MountainProjectPost

Lizzy (Scully) and I took this past month and went “East coasting.” Multiple agenda resulted in five slideshows/fundraisers, three family visits, one wedding, three climbing areas, and seven driving days. First of all, we want to thank all the gear sponsors for donating heaps of gear and the people who paid me to talk about rock climbing. The support made it possible to raise nearly $2700 for Girls Ed.

Fundraising and giving climbing presentations proved a well-suited duo, and I’m encouraged to continue this relationship. In the trip’s planning stages, Lizzy knew to counter my unspoken cynicism, stating, “You want to get better at speaking publicly and you can fundraise for Girls Ed at the same time. People will be psyched.” It wasn’t a hard sell to company sponsors. RAB clothing, Evolve shoes, Sierra Designs, Maxim Ropes, and Stonewear Designs all jumped on board with the tour.
The merging themes of the show challenged me and the audience to connect the dots, from the personal adventures and goals we have as climbers to the global importance of girls’ education. Before I showed off photos and films of myself high on a wall, free climbing in another beautiful place, Lizzy gave short presentations on the genesis of Girls Ed. She connected her climbing adventure in Pakistan to an unplanned stay in a small village where she and climbing partner, Heidi Wirtz, were motivated by the poor state of the girls school and thus formed an organization to do something to improve girls education in remote places of the world. The Girl Effect video was played at the end of Lizzy’s presentation. Each time I watched it I felt motivated to act and aware that I can contribute now to the voice of educated and empowered women.
I thank my experiences as a climber for this voice, and moreover the constant support and room for growth I have been given from friends and family. Beginning the tour with a show in Washington D.C. felt grounding, as my parents and many childhood friends showed up, and I felt a presence throughout my talking that I hadn’t anticipated. I dreaded the opposite, as so often I’ve felt disconnected in a public speaking, wondering whose words are coming out of my mouth. Instead I was pleased to enter my stories searching for a truth and being patient and comfortable with myself to tell a story to its end and share any humor or wit of the moment.

I started my multi-media show with stories of Black Canyon and then talked about the various first female team ascents I did with Kate Rutherford of big walls in Zion and Yosemite. I concluded the show with the Women At Work film that recorded a first free ascent I did with two other women on the remote big wall, Mt. Proboscis, in the Northwest Territories of Canada. These achievements laid groundwork for my understanding of how attainable these big wall objectives are. I tried to emphasize both the importance of an appropriate goal and strategy and role of inspiration in these successes.
A few audience members thanked me for the inspiration of merging a humanitarian effort with my personal adventures. Perhaps they will strive for the same lofty goals, and I thank them for helping make this one a success. The tight timeframe of the tour was an opportunity to refine my stories and remember what was audience member’s enjoyed and what I need to tighten or better articulate. Such as what is a ‘Princess Tactic’ really? Can I give some more specific detail on how to actually climb these big walls than just, “Try hard and strategize to minimize your suffering.” To this end, I look forward to more shows. Next up will be at Bent Gate Mountaineering in Golden, Colo., on Wednesday September 14.

My sweet friends Andy Nueman and Alex Lowther made it out to the Gunks for my show and a climbing weekend. As predictable, I had Andy roping up for another route at dusk and while he whined a bit, 200 ft off the ground in the dark, traversing a slippery 5.11 I think we had a fun, safe time. Right Andy? Expectant friends at Andrew’s bbq were mildly concerned by our absence, but Lizzy knew what was up as I’d pulled the same move on her the day before. In the words of Andrew, my climbing zeal is “like a dog with eight dicks.” Hmmm. That’s a first.

Check out Lizzy’s vids: interviews, climbing and more at http://lizzyscully.wordpress.com/

And Happy Valentine Day. I’ve dragged my pink couch up to the fireplace and am sufficiently spent this evening. Computer work is draining. Lizzy inspired me to finally burn some of the wood Tom and I split the other day. She and I enjoyed the fireplace for the first time and made a YUM dinner of winter veg from the Frog Belly Farm. Yes, organic, local (and small) farm produce is noticeably flavorful after I’ve been eating a lot of store bought foods. And I found a worm in my salad–still busy adding to the flavor.

Free Princess Tactics: Eat, Climb, Laugh from Madaleine Sorkin on Vimeo.

A Kerala Experience from Madaleine Sorkin on Vimeo.

Back in winter. Enjoying being a pedestrian in Boulder.

School is beginning in full swing and I moved into a new place on Tuesday night. So, I will probably be neglecting this blog again. Matt and I christened our new roommate relationship with a bit of Glenlivet whiskey I bought in London’s duty free. Lizzy is psyched that my house has mice as that means we are getting a cat! Lizzy may be the official owner though, as Matt and I share a similar trait and neither of us I are comfortable with such a commitment.

Opening slide to my presentation

The light changes slowly this time of year, barely filtering into the flat at 7.30 a.m. Even with the blinds drawn I’m using an artificial light to write.

Last night’s event was such an honor! If I had any need to be the center of attention this year, well I’ve filled my quota. I probably could have predicted the scene of the London Alpine Club. “Actually Madaleine,” Frank said, “it’s the Alpine Club.’ Ahem. Frank Cannings, a friend from the British Climbing Meet in Cornwall last May, met me before the show. We set up my computer, tested all was well with the sound and visual display and then Frank, Hugh and I went out for a drink and bite. A woman, Barbara, was also helping there but couldn’t come as she had to be at the club for when the bar opened at 6pm! How different than the American Alpine Club. I probed Frank and Hugh about the exclusivity of the club and the history and stereotypes of a 150 yr old boys club. I guess the club is more inclusive these days. The CV criterion is something like 20-30 significant peaks and of course women are invited. Seeing the library was a treat, with an entrance room of intimate portraiture of the many past presidents. When I arrived back to the bar/room for slideshow, everyone seemed to be having a good, social time.

My show was titled, ‘Freeing Big Walls in North America: Princess Tactics.” Frank gave me a great and boasting intro, I enjoyed his description of me as a ‘flexible American’ for my ability to do a wide stem, or ‘bridge’ as Brits say, on a first ascent of a roof crack with Pat Littlejon. My mom and uncle and a long time family friend, Doris, were also in attendance so the whole thing felt rather special. I’m not sure what of my presentation resonated with the audience of about 30. Afterwards I was presented with hardback of “The Summit: 150 yrs of the Alpine Club” and the 2009 Journal and again made to feel very special. People seemed to enjoy the ‘Women-At-Work’ film and I enjoyed a conversation about the experience and draw to being in remote, dramatic places, with a climber who continues to attempt a certain line on Makalu.

After dinner, we walked back in the rain. By 12.30 my Grandma was in bed, but I arrived to a fresh hot water bottle under my pillow. Ah love. I’m so lucky.

Okay fast forward to afternoon—-
Back on a plane, I finally ended a 45-hour love affair with flying, and celebrated en route to Denver, Colorado by watching Gandhi—the 1982 film starring Ben Kingsley. Gandhi’s words about coexistence resonated with me differently than they may have a month ago. In conversation with Gandhi, the British government kept pointing out its role in keeping the peace in India between Hindus, Muslims, and Christians. Gandhi kept stating that this role was misplaced and India was ready to assume such responsibility under self-rule. Moreover, however, Gandhi spoke to the unifying commonalities of mankind and Indians ability to live together peacefully. Even today in Kerala, I find such coexistence fascinating probably because religion is more visually obvious to me than in the US and I think I assume greater public visibility means it’s even more tolerated. I realize that we can choose to see the differences between peoples and religions, or see the commonalities. Spirituality is very much in the public sphere in India and in that way is celebrated by all Indians together. It seems to me that in the U.S. a separation on Church and State has also meant less tolerance for religiosity in the public sphere.

From the Gandhi film, I wrote down a powerful line by an American reporter who witnessed the Salt works beatings and reported—“India is free for She has taken all the steel and cruelty that England can give, and she has not retreated.” Such demonstrations of non-violent resistance revolutionized India and the rest of the world. While I’ve deeply appreciated the sound bites of philosophy I’ve read from Gandhi, I now realize how little I knew of his life. I really look forward to reading his autobiography!