For the Love of Eldo

While always closer than the smell of bacon, my love Eldo resurged in January with a warm winter spell. Scary Canary was the first new route of year to thaw my addiction to Eldo. The route presents excitement off the ground, as you fiddle in an RP and double or triple zero before making committing moves. There is a crux about 15 feet up which actually got me to deadpoint. Afterwards, you poke your through a band of rottenness and then voyage up typical Eldo technicalities with the odd job of fixed and bolted metal things. The second pitch, an ever steepening dihedral with tricky gear and an exciting run-out, gave me a run for my money and I had to return a second time to lead it with falling.

After this climb, my fire for Eldo was burning bright. I return to climb several new routes and revisit older loves. I finally climbed Jules Verne, linking it into the Lene’s Dream and Naked Edge. At some point during a surge of an inflated ego, I said something completely absurb to my partner “Ms. Shawberg.” Luckily she wasn’t yet tweeting for the SheSends twitter, or you may have seen something like. “OMG. When will this end? My partner just called herself a ‘StoneCold Crusher.’”

Last week, I climbed the Surfs Up (13a R) route at the Rincon Wall. I redpointed the route on my second attempt. I believe sport climbing at the Industrial Wall for the week prior paid off! I also had the advantage of climbing Freeline (13b R) last May, which shares the starting boulder problem. Nonetheless, I am encouraged by how strong I felt on this route. It is fun to be more fit in the middle of winter than ever and I know that the good fortune of climbable weather and adventures within a close proximity to my house are might helpful factors.

Thank you Mike Schluach for taking photos. Pitch 1 of Scary canary.


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