My first 8a

Jesse and I were getting little snappy with each other. The cold nights and mornings in the tent and an accumulation of a couple inconveniences got to us. Our water bottles are freezing. My thermarest has a hole. The sport climbers cooking next to us are uptight and Jesse has no one to drink with. I forgot my climbing pants and bought a pair for over 100$ which I later realized I couldn’t highstep in. Kryptonite.

You’re not supposed to suffer on a sport climbing trip right? Everything is more expensive than we anticipated and after hemorrhaging oodles of money a poverty-mentality cloud settled overhead and began to dampen our Spanish fiesta. Well, enough of that shit. We’re in Spain have the means to enjoy it. We’ll save money where we can and spend it when worthy opportunities arise. We’ll be intentional with our spending.

Yesterday, we began to remedy our inconveniences. We bought a proper fry pan and a box of veggies. We took showers. Sigh. I fixed my thermarest. Things started looking up. Today, water bottles were frozen but we woke up cheery and talking shit to one another in proper brother/sister spirit. I cooked a egg and veg heaven of a breakfast and we went to our new favorite crag. We’re in Terradettes and the crag Paret de las bruixes is loaded with long 12s and 13s. We brought both ropes this time to compliment our selfish needs, packed a big lunch and our novels.  We suntanned with the 20 other sportwankers milling about the base. It is frightening stepping far away from the crag’s base. Not because of a cliff’s edge.  Rather the leave no trace ethic apparently doesn’t exist in Spain and it is difficult to avoid stepping in human shit when I go for a pee.

Today I sent my first 8a! I surprised myself by putting the route to rest on my second go. Called “El Latido del Miedo, it’s a 30 meter route up tufas and such things, the beautiful line seems like many of the others. I’m so psyched I get to climb here. I don’t know if I’ll focus on redpointing much harder than 13b. We’ll see. I will certainly try routes that take more than a couple goes but I want to keep the pressure low and sample a few zones in this sea of Catalan limestone.

The day ended with Jesse and I each giving a full effort on routes at our limits and attaining onsight glory. From now on, we’ll try to keep the energy positive over here. Thankfully, we are on a pretty posh sport climbing trip and there is much to be upbeat about. In Jesse’s Colorado slang, “The hiking boots are out and the Spainard’s warm ups are getting crushed.”

Con Amor,







4 thoughts on “My first 8a

  1. hola amiga! hope spain is treating you well! the kids are super inspired by your exploits…we’d love to catch up when you’re back in town.

    peace out ~ josh and the clan

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